說起Bourgogne的Nuits St. Georges,就不得不提Domaine Robert Chevillon。 Domaine Robert Chevillon 擁地13公頃,八塊葡萄田均來自Nuits St. Georges的Premier Cru,每年出口佔總產量達九成,約七萬多瓶!
酒都是去梗後經過冷浸泡 (cool pre-fermentation maceration),再於stainless steel中發酵。陳年方面,Premier Cru使用30%新橡木桶,而Village的則使用約20%,其他比例亦有於2至3年的橡木桶中陳年。 這夜,很幸運可以同時嚐到Nuits St. Georges中最強三塊葡萄田-Les Saint Georges、Les Vaucrains以及Les Cailles的出品,來了一個突如其來的 Mini-horizontal Tasting! 1. Les Cailles 開始時所的的礦物氣息有點像站在海邊時,海風迎面而來的感覺,輕輕的,不是碎石,也不是大石頭。紅果的香氣則有點傾向梅子,混合一點oak spice、乾泥土氣息,不俗。唯一令人卻步的,就是開始時那股有點強的SO2氣味。
入口酒體偏厚,酸度亦偏高,果感有點略嫌不夠濃郁,令酸度有點突出。偏長餘顏。
隨著時間過去,約三個多小時,有輕微的紫羅蘭開始漸漸浮現,果味亦開始盛放,整體口感圓滑起來,令人討好一點。
FS 88+ 2. Les Vaucrains 市面上比較少見這塊田,自己也很少嚐試得到,開始時有點期待。
比起Les Cailles,Les Vaucrains更帶多一點濃郁的藍、黑色水果風味,配以像小石的礦物感。酒體更厚一點,乾泥土的氣息稍微淡一點,花香更盛放。整體表現得更優雅、細緻,挺喜歡~♥ 相對起來,Les Cailles會顯得粗獷一點。
FS 90+ 3. Les Saint Georges 三枝中最強悍的一枝。單寧感最高,而且骨架最大~開了三小時仍是半盛放狀態,難服侍得很~
除了很多很多的香辛夾雜濃濃的紅果、黑李子外、暗紅花,還輕微帶有一點黑巧克力的感覺。厚身酒體、高單寧、偏高酸度,明顯不是走活潑、年輕的路線。在我面前,他就像一個穿滿防護裝備、準備打仗的戰士,強硬得很,良久不肯放鬆半分。
然而,論深度、層次,這枝的確相對突出。後段的碎石、灰泥氣息、黑櫻桃⋯⋯都是強而有力且能夠融為一體的⋯⋯只是當天小女子戰鬥力不足,很快就敗給這個戰士了⋯⋯😛 FS 92+
Domaine Robert Chevillon is one of the most famous domaines in Nuits St. Georges, Bourgogne.
Robert's two sons, Bertrand and Denis, now look after the wine-making and viticulture respectively. They own 13 hectares of vineyards in Nuits St. Georges. All 8 vineyards are NSG's premier cru. Grapes are de-stemmed and process cool pre-fermentation maceration before going to fermentation in stainless steel. 30% new oak barrel will be used for Premier Cru wine and around 20% will be used for village wine.
Last Sunday, I was lucky enough to have the chance to try the Les Saint Georges, Les Vaucrains and Les Cailles from Domaine Robert Chevillon, vintage 2008.
1. Les Cailles
Sea breeze-like mineral smell was with red currant, oak spice and dried-soil. The sense of SO2 was a bit strong at the beginning.
Miedum-plus body with medium-plus level of acidity. The acidity was a bit high on the palate due to insufficient fruit concentration to support. Medium-plus after-taste.
After around 3-hour, there was hints of violet and the fruit characters became stronger. Overall round mouth-feeling. More attractive at the end. FS: 88+
2. Les Vaucrains
I seldom try Les Vaucrains - looking forward to.
More blue fruits and black fruits characters when comparing with Les Cailles. Compare to Les Cailles, it had fuller body with more floral on the nose. Overall elegant and meticulous. FS: 90+
3. Les Saint Georges
This was the strongest wine among three - really big and did not show its full picture after three hours breathing.
Apart from lots of spice with condensed red fruits, there were dark-red floral and slightly dark chocolate. Full body, high tannin with high level of acidity. It liked a soldier wearing many protective equipment - not easy to 'attack'.
However, it did show its complexity and layers. More gravel, earthy, dark cherry...strong but well-integrated. FS: 92+