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《大酒●聚》│ (八) 2000 Emmanual Rouget Cros Parantoux


記得知道有機會再嚐Emmanual Rouget Cros Parantoux 的時候,真的興奮得要彈起來⋯⋯事關上一次(也是第一次)嚐2001年時那種震撼感,到現在還歷歷在目⋯⋯那是我第一次感受到「穿透性」對一枝酒的重要,也令我體會到頂級酒款之所以頂級,是怎樣一回事。(前文: https://goo.gl/0qpW6C)

然而,2000 Emmanual Rouget Cros Parantoux 並沒想像中那般平易近人,頗為「倔強」-過了一個多小時仍帶有強烈的木桶香辛混合肉類氣息。雖然紅果、黑李子等等果香漸漸甦醒、活潑起來,但木桶感還頗為強烈。

兩個半多小時後,入口沒有聞香般強桶感,帶有漸濃的熟果、礦物、香辛、薄荷、丁香,整體融和、細緻,像緊握著的拳頭開始鬆開一樣,但始終還未到盛放階段。

過了三、四個小時⋯⋯最後,在果感愈喝愈濃愈透徹、花香還在若隱若現的階段時,酒就已喝光⋯⋯現在回想起來,確是有點可惜⋯⋯但也是迫不得已。(誰又會在盛放著的2005 DRC Richebourg、2006 DRC La Tache面前友善對待一枝倔強的Emmanual Rouget Cros Parantoux ?)

就我而言,這枝2000 Emmanual Rouget Cros Parantoux已踏入成熟階段,但始終不是那麼容易讓人輕易接近,品嚐時還是需要時間等待。與2001年比較,2000帶有更強結構、熟透單寧,凝聚出澎湃的氣勢。若完全開放,何等豔麗!

FS 93+

I was really glad to have another chance to taste Emmanual Rouget Cros Parantoux! And this time, the 2001 vintage came with me.

It was not as though as easy to approach – A strong sense of oak spice with hints of meaty aromas……dark red fruits characters became livelier but the oak flavors were still obvious after an hour half breathing.

The sense of oak spice was not as strong as on the nose when on the palate, it was more elegant. After two and an half hours, the rich red fruits characters were followed by mineral, spice, mint and clove. Everything was well-integrated and delicate, but they were still a bit closed.

Floral components obviously were not in an important role in this bottle and they still hid behind the fruit flavours after 3-4 hours – disappointed. The bottle was finished before it could fully-opened - unfortunately.

Overall, 2000 Emmanual Rouget Cros Parantoux was mature, but not easy to approach. It had more structure, ripe tannin and more powerful than the 2001 vintage, but if you would like to get to know it, you have to wait and be more patient! (Sure I will...next time)

FS 93+

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