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《大酒●聚》│ (六) 2001 Domaine d’Auvenay Bonnes Mares


相信不少人對「呀婆」Domaine Leroy都不感陌生,但又知不知這個「布根地鐵娘子」(Ms. Lalou Bize-Leroy) 的老公也有酒莊出品?

Domaine d’Auvenay (「呀公」) 是他們兩公婆於1988年購入的獨立酒莊。他們不但採用Bio-dynamic種植法,而且在釀酒過程中使用約半數新木桶,再以Unfiltered方式處理裝瓶⋯⋯加上每塊田的年產量極少,只有僅僅百餘瓶到約二、三千瓶-稀有程度可見一斑!

酒款方面,Domaine d’Auvenay的紅酒出品只有Bonnes Mares和Mazis Chambertin,價錢過萬起跳;白酒則較為「貼地」,從Meursault、Chevalier Montrachet、Puligny Montrachet到Auxey Duresse以及Aligote也有出品。

當晚嚐的,就是兩個紅酒酒款的其中一個-Bonnes Mares,2001年。

除了不停重覆的礦物、花、紅果外,2001 Domaine d’Auvenay Bonnes Mares 跟 2005 DRC Richebourg 一樣,口感有點「溶」,而且在當晚眾多「大酒」中,這枝的香辛氣息開始時相對明顯。入口酒體偏厚、較熟的單寧感、帶穿透性的酸。果感除了紅,還傾向有點黑果,如黑櫻桃、黑布冧⋯⋯隨時間過去,香辛感開始收歛,酒愈喝愈「厚」,花香不斷。(但論花香則不及同場的2005 DRC Richebourg般盛放)

整體感覺除了優雅,就是優雅,難以用筆墨描寫,雖沒有2006 DRC La Tache那麼耐人尋味,但也屬三個字-深、透、廣。

若DRC是一個有內涵的紳士,這枝2001 Domaine d’Auvenay Bonnes Mares就是一個較為低調的文人雅士。對小女子來說,他可作情人、作朋友,卻不會是共渡一生的伴侶。

FS 94

Rich texture with remarkably floral, mineral and pure red fruits characters. Oak spice was a bit strong at the beginning when comparing with other wines at that ‘Crazy Night’.

Full-bodied, ripe tannin and fresh acidity. There were not only red fruits flavours, but also some black fruits characters such as black cherries and black plum on the palate. Oak spice was soften after a period of time and the wine became richer and much more complex. Long after-taste. Well structure.

Overall, the wine was elegant with high intensity of fruit concentration. Everything was well integrated.

FS 94

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